Suppose you’re one of our loyal readers. In that case, you certainly know that we have a thing for salmon dial watches, chronographs in general – monopushers to be even more precise – classic designs of the 1940s and we have huge respect for the work of Austrian independent watchmakers Maria and Richard Habring (also known as Habring²). All of that led us to the creation of our first Montre de Souscription, a salmon sector dial monopusher by Habring². So, the watch you’re about to see, the new Chrono Felix Perpetual with a salmon dial, somehow tickled our interest… to say the least.
Earlier this week, Massena LAB, the design studio founded by our friend William Massena, presented the Chrono Felix Perpetual LAB-CFP… No need to say, a stunning watch. This model is an evolution of Habring² compact monopusher chronograph, the Chrono Felix, with its in-house movement now combined with a perpetual calendar module. A tribute to some of the greatest watches ever done in the past, such as the all-time great Patek Philippe 1518 – the first-ever chronograph perpetual calendar wristwatch.
The thing is, Massena LAB had created its own version with a black dial and classic numerals. But that’s not all, as Maria and Richard Habring are also launching their own version of the watch, with the same case and movement, but a drastically different dial. And its own appeal too. The difference on the “regular” Chrono Felix Perpetual is the dial, which now has a straight brushed, salmon-coloured face with Breguet numerals… Yes, sound like something close to perfection.
The Chrono Felix Perpetual has been dubbed “the little brother who has it all” by its creators. Understand by that, it’s an evolution of the Chrono Felix with the addition of a QP module. It’s not the first time that the Austrian watchmakers present such a combination of chronograph and calendar complications, as we’ve seen the Perpetual-Doppel before. This watch, made to celebrate the 15th anniversary of the creation of the brand, was however using a rattrapante movement and was housed in a large, 43mm case. The main interest of the new Chrono Felix Perpetual lies in the fact that Habring² managed to have all complications housed in a much smaller, more vintage-oriented case.
Indeed, this new chrono QP Habring² is only 38.5mm in diameter, with a reasonable height of 13mm – about 1mm more than a non-QP version. The case adopts a new stepped bezel, which is polished, while the flanks are brushed. Both the design and the proportions are an ode to the past, yet with modern features such as sapphire crystals front and back, and classic Habring² features, like the double-sealed crown and refinements on the movement side.
The dial is unique to the Austrian’s couple edition, with its galvanized rose gold colour (salmon if you prefer), leaf-shaped polished steel hands and handsome rhodiated Breguet numerals. The addition of a perpetual calendar of course changes the style of the watch – more sub-dials to display the day, date, month, leap year and moon indications – but also necessitated some adjustments for the chronograph. There’s no more small seconds and the 30-minute counter, usually at 3 o’clock on the Chrono Felix, now frames the moon indication at 12 o’clock. And thanks to the compact size of the watch, the counters of the perpetual calendar are nicely proportioned and legible.
As for the movement, it’s about the juxtaposition of two well-known elements. First is the perpetual calendar module, made by renowned producer Dubois-Depraz – this module has proven its reliability over the year. Second is the in-house, hand-wound, monopusher chronograph movement known as Calibre A11CP. A strong evolution over the 7750 architecture, it’s now assembled internally, in Austria, with parts sourced from local independent manufacturers – no parts coming from ETA and the likes. This movement has been upgraded for better functionality, easier service and more reliability. It features an amagnetic escapement with a Carl Haas balance spring, a KIF shock-absorber and the decoration includes polished bevels, decorative grinding, perlage… Just note that the watch features correctors for the calendar, implied by its modular construction.
The Habring² Chrono Felix Perpetual Salmon is released as part of the permanent collection and isn’t limited in numbers. However, production will be limited by the watchmaker’s capacities. Don’t expect this watch to be made in hundreds of pieces a year. It is here presented on a matte brown leather strap. It retails for EUR 23,500 (incl. taxes).
For more details, please visit www.habring2.com.