In Bovet’s rarefied universe of formidably staged complications and lavishly decorated timepieces, the 19Thirty is one of the ‘simpler’, less extravagant models: Pascal Raffy’s vision of an ‘everyday’ watch. Introduced in 2015, the style of the Fleurier case with its crown at 12 o’clock and the subsidiary seconds on the dial give the 19Thirty its strong pocket watch personality. Its everyday functionality is reflected in the lean, 42mm stainless steel case and robust 7-day power reserve. Revisited with different colour dials, the red guilloché dial introduced in February this year was such a hit that Bovet is coming out with another guilloché dial, this time in a gorgeous turquoise tone that changes with the light.
POCKET WATCH MUSE
The inspiration behind the 19Thirty collection was a 1930s Bovet pocket watch with a small extractable stand. Known as the ‘easel’, the stand allowed the pocket watch to double up as a table clock. The latest 19Thirty comes in a 42mm stainless steel case with a slim 9.05mm height and polished finishings throughout. The hallmark crown at 12 o’clock and the strap bolts are set with a blue sapphire cabochon to match the colour scheme of the dial and the dark blue alligator strap with turquoise stitching. For additional comfort, the bow at the top of the case is articulated and sits flush on the wrist.
Like other models in the 19Thirty collection, the time indications are relayed in an off-centred hours and minutes counter with Roman numerals and a smaller seconds counter with Arabic numbers at 6 o’clock. Produced entirely in-house, the novelty here is the stunning guilloché pattern decorating the sub-dials. Engraved by hand using a rose engine lathe, the intricate pattern that fans out from the centre of the dials like peacock feathers is then given layer after layer of translucent turquoise coloured lacquer. Once the lacquer has dried, the dials are polished to reveal the guilloché patterns. According to the light conditions, the guilloché pattern produces colours that evoke tropical Caribbean waters to darker, more intense blues.
The time functions are staged against three different backgrounds: the classic hand-engraved Fleurisanne motifs or a more sober background of silver or blackened Côtes de Genève. A power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock alerts the wearer when the watch needs rewinding.
Although there is no picture of the movement in the press pack, the in-house manual-winding calibre 15BM04 can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback – a feature that the Bovet brothers invented in the early 19th century so owners could admire the refined finishings on their pocket watches. The symmetry on the dial of this Fleurier 19Thirty extends to the movement with the balance cock and centre wheel cock aligned and revealed through two apertures in the bridge. In fact, although it looks like a solid ¾ plate, there is a squiggly line traversing the bridge with apertures revealing other details of the movement. Because of its high level of vertical integration – with its own movement and dial manufactures – Bovet is currently able to craft about 85% of its calibres in-house. Calibre 15BM04 was designed specifically for this collection. Like pocket watch movements, the generous 15 ¾ ligne calibre (35.53mm) fills all the available space and offers an exceptional 7-day power reserve on just one barrel. The finishings are in line with Bovet’s craftsmanship with blued screws, perlage on the mainplate and Côtes de Genève stripes on the bridges.
Availability & Price
In addition to this steel and turquoise guilloché 19Thirty model, Bovet will also release an 18k red gold version. Each edition is strictly limited to 60 timepieces. The stainless steel model, reference NTS0054, retails for CHF 19,500, the red gold reference NTR0054 for CHF 33,200.
For more information, please consult Bovet’s website.
Technical specifications – Bovet 19Thirty Guilloché
Case: 42mm diameter x 9.05mm height – Fleurier style case in stainless steel or 18k red gold, polished – sapphire cabochons in crown and lugs – 30m water-resistance – sapphire crystal front and back
Dial: guilloché decoration with turquoise lacquer in sub-dials – top sub-dial for hours and minutes with white Roman numerals, lower one for subsidiary seconds with Arabic numerals – available with Fleurisanne hand-engraved bridges, silvered Cötes de Genève or blackened Côtes de Genève – power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock
Movement: calibre 15BM04 in-house, manual-winding – 15 ¾ ’’’ – 7-day power reserve on one barrel – 21,600vph – hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, power reserve indicator
Strap: blue alligator with turquoise stitching – steel or red gold ardillon buckle
References: NTS0054 steel
NTR0054 red gold
Availability: limited to 60 pieces
Price: CHF 19,500 steel