The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is one of the brand’s all-time classics, a watch that has helped Oris weather the storm in the 1980s and a watch with a specific resonance on the Dutch market. This watch is special for the brand and, without surprise, it is the watch that the Fratello team selected for their new collaboration piece. Of course, Robert-Jan and his team wanted to make this watch special, unique and personal. So they decided to mix what’s the most handsome dial colour available with a case material that emphasises the vintage look. The result: this new Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze “Fratello” Edition.
The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was reintroduced at Baselworld 2018, returning to the brand’s catalogue as a full collection. However, this watch is far more important for the brand and carries an almost century-old history. The Big Crown Pointer Date made its debut in 1938 and was characterised by an oversized crown so that pilots could adjust their watches without having to remove their gloves. In addition to the extra-large crown, the time was displayed with large Arabic numerals and cathedral hands and a central hand with a red tip to indicate the date displayed on a peripheral track. Reintroduced by Dr Rolf Portmann in 1984, on a hunch that nostalgia for mechanical watches with a dash of aviation history might catch on, the Big Crown Pointer Date was the mechanical piece that kept the company afloat during the quartz flood.
Since then, multiple editions of this watch have been created. Among them (and visible above), two are important for today’s “Fratello” Edition. First is the 40mm bronze model, with its material that perfectly matches the overall vintage concept of the collection. Second is the edition that features probably the most handsome, most striking dial of all Pointer Date watches: the Oxblood edition. Rich, original, intense… The idea behind the Pointer Date “Fratello” Edition originated when the latter was presented to the magazine’s team at Baselworld 2018. However, this watch was cased in steel and, if the dial had them hooked, they “wanted to create something special and unique” says Robert-Jan Broer, founder of Fratello. The vision of this dial in bronze surfaced.
To begin with, the Pointer Date “Fratello” Edition is largely based on the watch that many of us know. It has a 40mm case with a fluted bezel, a double-domed sapphire crystal adding vintage charm, an oversized crown (of course) and brushed surfaces for an instrumental look. As mentioned, the team opted for a bronze case giving this limited edition an even more old-school design.
While the Oxblood colour of the dial was behind the creation of this piece, the Fratello team didn’t just position an existing dial inside a bronze case. They applied their own touch, giving this watch its own personality, differing from the current steel/oxblood version. The rich colour of the dial has been adorned with gilt elements echoing the warm tones of the case. The railroad minute track, the Oris logo, the date track and the text printed at 6 o’clock are executed in shimmering gold tones. The hands, whether the main “cathedral” hands or the ones for the seconds and the date, are all gold-coloured.
Finally, there is no mention of “Automatic” on this watch, like that seen on the dial of other Big Crown Pointer Date watches. Instead, the Fratello team opted for an “Anti-Shock” mention at 6 o’clock. “It is something we came across during a visit to the Oris museum in Hölstein last year. It is a nice nod to the Oris watches of old that prominently displayed this information,” says the team.
Mechanically speaking, no evolution, as the watch is still powered by the Oris Calibre 754, a Sellita SW-200 base modified to have a central date by hand. The movement is hidden under a closed stainless steel back with specific engravings.
The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze “Fratello” Edition will be delivered on a taupe leather strap with a bronze buckle. The lining of this quick-release leather strap is Oxblood red. This watch also comes with a second strap, a grey NATO strap with a bronze keeper and buckle.
Availability & price
The Oris x Fratello watch will be limited to 300 pieces. 250 pieces are now available via the Fratello Shop here. 50 of these Fratello limited edition watches will be sold through official Oris boutiques. The watch will retail for EUR 1,950 (incl. VAT and worldwide delivery).
More details at shop.fratello.com.
Technical specifications – Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze “Fratello” Edition
40mm diameter x 12mm height – 48mm lug-to-lug – bronze case, with steel caseback – sapphire crystal, double-domed, A/R coating – special engravings on the caseback – 50m water-resistant
oxblood red dial with gilt elements (minute track, Oris logo, date track, inscriptions at 6 o’clock) – gold-coloured cathedral hands – Arabic numerals
Oris 754, base SW 200-1 with central date – automatic – 26 jewels – 38h power reserve – 28,800 vibrations/hour – hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand
tone-on-tone taupe leather strap with bronze buckle – additional grey NATO strap with bronze keeper and buckle – spring bar tool included
limited to 300 pieces – 250 pieces available via shop.fratello.com – 50 pieces available via official Oris boutiques