When you look at the vast collection offered by Moritz Grossmann, the impressive range of movements or the classic, typically German style of the watches offered by the brand, it is hard to believe that Moritz Grossmann is still a very young manufacture. Indeed, this year, the brand is celebrating its 12th anniversary and has been releasing several watches to mark this achievement. We already took a look at the utterly classic (but superb) watches with “silver plating by friction” dials. Today’s models are drastically different, as more contemporary and sportier – yet still very much MG. Here are the two stainless steel Power Reserve watches XII Birthday Editions.
When you think Moritz Grossmann, you’ll certainly have in mind this kind of watch, a piece with a typical German-style, traditional and luxurious, finished with precious metals and incredible attention to details on the movement side. And while this was the case for the first watch dedicated to the 12th anniversary of the creation of the brand, the new Power Reserve watches we present to you here are certainly a bit different. More modern, less precious, with a slight contemporary note… I wouldn’t dare to say instrumental, but with a slight sporty note. Far more casual than your traditional Moritz Grossmann watch.
The base for these two limited editions is well known, being the Power Reserve watch in the Benu Heritage collection. As such, the two XII Birthday watches share the same specifications and movement, but changes all the elements of the habillage, with new materials and new colours. First and foremost, both are stainless steel watches, a commoner material rarely used by Grossmann, more accustomed to precious metals. Second, while the display and indications are in line with the rest of the collection, the colours offered are unprecedented.
The first of these two Moritz Grossmann Power Reserve XII Birthday watches is a classic stainless steel watch. The 41mm is fully brushed for a more subtle visual result, giving this piece a discreet style. This casual attire is even reinforced by the use of a smooth calfskin strap in brown, giving its an almost vintage touch. The dial, which retains the large Arabic numerals and hand-crafted stainless steel hands, is executed in matte blue with contrasting white elements. The hands are, however, now filled with luminous material. All in all, there’s almost a pilot’s look to this blue model.
The second version is even more modern and unusual for the brand. The case, which is here made of polished stainless steel, has been fully coated in black and equipped with a matching leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching. The stealth Grossmann, if you like. The dial is treated in the same vein, with a matte black surface and white contrasting Arabic numerals and the same superb, luminous hand-crafted stainless steel hands. While most elements of a typical Grossmann watch are present, the final render is surprising, but far from unpleasant. Actually, it is quite cool.
For the rest, no surprises. The case, material and finishings apart, is identical to non-limited Moritz Grossmann Power Reserve watches, at 41mm in diameter and 11.65mm in height. It still features a sapphire crystal on both sides and the typical crown-and-pusher device to set the time and wind the movement – you need to press the pusher at 4 o’clock in order to actuate the crown, thus preventing misuse of the crown in normal conditions. The power reserve complication, the hallmark of this model, is still displayed in a linear fashion at 12 o’clock. Its indicator is anthracite/white on the blue edition and red/white on the full-black model.
Inside this solid steel cases is the calibre 100.2, an extension of the calibre 100.1 found in this watch, for instance. This hand-wound calibre, with pillar architecture and 2/3 plate, is executed in the most traditional way, assembled and decorated by hand. Its construction is an ode to vintage pocket watch movements and this reflects also in the overall (very desirable) style. It features a cantilevered balance cock with Grossmann micrometre screw and the mass-optimised Grossmann balance along with a separately removable winding block. Running at a slow pace of 18,000 vibrations per hour, it stores 42 hours of power reserve. The decoration includes stripes on the untreated German silver bridges, hand-engraved balance cock and escape-wheel cock, raised gold chatons with pan-head screws and purple-heat screws. The power reserve indication is added on top thanks to a differential gear.
The two stainless steel Moritz Grossmann Power Reserve XII Birthday Edition Watches will be available in 12 pieces each. Price is not yet confirmed but expect around EUR 20,000. More details at grossmann-uhren.com.