Wristwatch Journal
As already explained in previous articles, Seiko is celebrating this year the 55th Anniversary of its involvment in dive watches – and when you know Seiko, the best word would even be “dedication” kwowing the influence of the brand on this category of watches. In March, the brand announced a trilogy of high-end, ultra-performant dive watches inspired by three of its prominent vintage models, the SLA037, 039 and 041, which are available since a few weeks on the market. Seiko is adding now a couple of new models to this collection, still inspired by its past, with the references SLA043J1 and SPB183J1.
While the concept of modern dive watches surfaced in 1953, it too a few more years to Seiko to enter the race. However, once in, the Japanese brand became one of the main actors, with an unquestionable reputation even today. In 1965, the brand released the 62MAS, the watch that laid down the rules for generations of dive watches to come, from accessible pieces to professionally-oriented masterpieces. And one thing to keep in mind is the influence Seiko had on the creation of the ISO 6425 standards…
The 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043J1
The first of the two watches to be released today is, once again, inspired by the brand’s earliest dive watch, the 1965 reference 6217-8000/1, also known as the 62MAS. With its automatic movement (calibre 6217A), 150m water-resistance, large (at that time) 37mm case with a mono-bloc shape and dial with oversized markers and hands, it defined what a Seiko diver should be.
This isn’t the first time that we see a faithful re-creation of the 62MAS. In 2017, Seiko had the reference SLA017, with a grey dial and vintage-looking elements. Ealier this year, we also had the reference SLA037, identical in many ways to the 017 yet with updates regarding the movement (Hi-Beat), the materials (specific steel alloy) and the colour of its dial, bezel and strap.
The watch you’re looking at here – ref. SLA043J1 – is sharing most elements with the two other references mentionned above. As such, its case measures 39.9mm, retains the typical 62MAS shape and is made of Ever-Brilliant Steel, an internal name for 904L steel. There are noticeable differences, though. The case is now entirely brushed (no more polished caseband), the bezel’s insert is black and the strap too, including a different pattern – waffle vs. tropic.
While the dial retains the signature combination of hands and indexes, as well as the grey-blue colour found on all 55th anniversary watches, the second’s hand is here coloured in light blue. Another important difference concerns the movement. The SLA017 featured the Calibre 8L35. The SLA037 came with a hi-beat evolution of this movement, the calibre 8L55. The new SLA043J1 comes back to the 4Hz calibre 8L35, a movement developed and assembled expressly for diver’s watches at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio, and based on a GS architecture. This concession, however, allows the price to be reduced at EUR 4,800. The SLA043J1 is delivered in a special box with a blue additional strap made of silicon. It is limited to 1,700 pieces and will be available from November 2020.
Specifications
- Case: 39.9mm x 14.1mm – 47.9mm lug-to-lug – Ever-Brilliant Steel case – unidirectional bezel with 60-minute insert – box-shaped sapphire crystal – screw-down crown – 200m water-resistance
- Movement: Calibre 8L35, in-house – automatic – 26 jewels – 28,800 vibrations/hours – 50h power reserve – +15 to -10 seconds per day
- Strap: 2 silicon straps with steel pin-buckle – black and blue
- Availability: Limited to 1,700 pieces, in stores Nov. 2020
- Price: EUR 4,800
The 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB183J1
The second new model in this 55th anniversary collection – ref. SPB183J1 – is based on the very cool re-interpretation of the ‘Captain Willard’ watch introduced earlier this year – under the references SPB151 and SPB153. This watch is based on the Seiko 6105, so-called Turtle watch. This watch was worn by Naomi Uemura, famous Japanese explorer, during most of his exploits – reaching the North Pole alone, being the first to descend the Amazon river in a boat… and more. But it is mostly known because it appeared on the wrist of Captain Willard (portrayed by Martin Sheen) in cult movie Apocalypse Now.
This new take on Willard’s watch is not an exact reproduction – this was done in 2019 with the SLA033 – but more a fairly priced, modernized take on the original concept. As explained in our review here, the 2020 SPB watches have a more contemporary look, with a 42.7mm case in steel – with super hard coating – and solid construction with 200m water-resistance. The bezel has an aluminium insert and the watch is protected by a bevelled sapphire crystal. And of course, the crown is positonned at 4 o’clock. Inside the case is the modern and powerful calibre 4R35, with 3Hz frequency and 70h power reserve.
On this occassion of the 55th anniversary, this Willard reproduction is adapted with a blue bezel and dial combination and a gold-coloured seconds hand. The watch is worn on a stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp and diving extension. A blue silicon strap is also included in the box. This SPB183J1 will be limited to 5,500 pieces, priced at EUR 1,450 and available from November 2020.
Specifications
- Case: 42.7mm x 13.2mm – 46.6mm lug-to-lug – Stainless steel case with super hard coating – unidirectional bezel with 60-minute insert – curved sapphire crystal – screw-down crown – 200m water-resistance
- Movement: Calibre 6R35, in-house – automatic – 24 jewels – 21,600 vibrations/hour – 70h power reserve – +25 to -15 seconds per day
- Bracelet: stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with secure lock, push-button release and extender – blue silicon strap also included
- Availability: Limited to 5,500 pieces, in stores Nov. 2020
- Price: EUR 1,450
More details at seikowatches.com.
