If you think about the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph, apart from the classic steel and blue dial version, the one model that should immediately come to mind is the tri-metal edition, a bold statement created in 1993, being one of the rare watches to use tantalum, combined with titanium and gold. The result, often nicknamed “The Beast”, was clearly something demonstrative that became iconic in the Seamaster collection. And yes, this unique combination of materials is back, with the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Titanium, Tantalum and Gold. Modernized, of course.
The watch we’re looking now was first released in 1993 – remember that, back in the early 1990s, mechanical watchmaking was barely back on track. Thus, creating an automatic diving chronograph using not one but 3 different metals was quite something. While the first Seamaster Diver 300M was already based on this chronograph, the reference 2296.80 was pushing the concept even further. Not only the case and bracelet were mostly titanium but it added polished gold accents and, even more unique, matte tantalum elements – central links of the bracelet and bezel. And this watch made an impression.
The new Ti/Ta/Au Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph
Clearly, the resemblance between the 1993 edition and this new model for 2020 is obvious. Not only the materials used are the same but they are positioned in the same way on the watch. However, the technical base has drastically, being the latest generation of Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph, which we extensively reviewed here.
Let’s talk about materials. First of all, the base of the watch remains mostly made of titanium – grade 2 titanium to be precise. Titanium has multiple advantages over stainless steel, being more corrosion-resistant, antimagnetic, biochemically inert and able to withstand extreme temperatures. Also, not neglectable in the case of a 44mm watch like this Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph, it is lighter. Finally, grade 2 titanium, which is here used with a brushed finishing, has a darker colour and matte surface, giving a more instrumental look.
Then, there are the contrasting gold elements, which add a luxurious and eccentric touch to this watch – something truly part of its identity. Here, there are some evolutions too. Yellow gold has been replaced by Omega’s own red gold alloy, named Sedna gold – more resistant to discolouration than a standard red gold alloy. It is here applied to the bracelet’s mid-links, to the pushers and crown, to the helium valve and to the bezel’s insert – the latter having a nice grained texture with raised numerals and track, obtained by laser-ablation.
Finally, there’s tantalum – the most important of the three metals, even though only seen by small touches. It is used here for the bezel and the bracelet’s mid-links. Tantalum holds a special place in watchmaking as it’s rarely used, but it always makes an impression. This blue-grey metal is more rare than gold, harder than steel, and highly corrosion-resistant. Dark, dense, pliable, and highly conductive of heat and electricity, it is particularly difficult to work with.
The dial of this Ti/Ta/Au Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph retains the classic SMP look. It is made of blue polished ceramic, with a laser-engraved pattern – a signature element of this collection. To match with the case, the hands and applied indexes are also in Sedna gold. Its display consists of a small seconds at 9 o’clock, a sub-counter for chronograph hours and minutes at 3 o’clock and a date window on the lower part of the dial.
The back reveals a sapphire crystal with the Seahorse logo, which has been laser-engraved and white lacquered on the sapphire crystal. Underneath is Omega’s powerful movement, calibre 9900. This automatic, integrated chronograph movement is equipped with a column-wheel and a vertical clutch. It runs at 4Hz and stores 60 hours of energy. It also comes with all the latest technology, being magnetic-resistant to 15,000-gauss and featuring the brand’s co-axial escapement. As such, it is Master Chronometer certified.
The watch, a true diver’s piece with 300m water-resistance, is worn on a metallic bracelet with patented extendable foldover rack- and-pusher with extra diver extension. It is placed inside a special presentation box in the style of a water-resistant chamber.
Availability and price
The new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Titanium, Tantalum and Gold (ref. 184.108.40.206.03.001) is released in the permanent collection, as a numbered edition – the unique number is placed on a Sedna gold plate on the side of the case. It will be available from retailers as of November 2020 and priced at EUR 18,200.
More details at omegawatches.com.
Technical specifications – Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Titanium, Tantalum, Gold
44mm diameter – grade 2 titanium case, brushed – tantalum bezel, unidirectional, Sedna gold insert with 60-minute scale – crown, pushers and HEV in Sedna gold – sapphire crystals front and caseback – 300m water-resistant
Blue dial in polished ceramic with laser-engraved wave pattern
Applied indexes and hands in Sedna gold, filled with Super-LumiNova
Omega Calibre 9900, in-house – Master Chronometer certified and co-axial – integrated automatic chronograph, column wheel and vertical clutch – resistant to 15,000 Gauss – 28,800 vibrations/hour – 54 jewels – 60h power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
Metallic bracelet, combination of grade 2 titanium, tantalum and Sedna gold
Folding clasp in titanium with safety pushers, diver extension device
Available November 2020