Wristwatch Journal
Recently, Ulysse Nardin has demonstrated its boldness by designing ultra-modern watches, with architectural openworked movements or complex displays. The brand is also about complications and, ironically, simplification of these complications. One should keep in mind the work done by the brand regarding its perpetual calendar – thanks to Dr Ludwig Oechslin. In the same vein, one of the most emblematic displays by UN is the dual time, and this watch today gets a complete overhaul. Meet the fully reshaped Ulysse Nardin Dual Time 42mm.
Making complex things simple… This watch Oechslin’s main strength during his days at Ulysse Nardin. He was the creative genius that developed the Freak, the Trilogy of Time collection (a trio of watches named Astrolabium Galileo Galilei, Planetarium Copernicus and Tellurium Johannes Kepler), and of course the Perpetual Calendar he created for the brand in 1996 to celebrate its 150th anniversary. But prior to that, in 1994, another watch made some noise, the Dual Time, with its patented instant time zone adjustment – one of the most practical of its kind on the market.
Now, in 2020, the brand has reshaped its strategy and remodelled most of its collections, with a far more daring design language and modern shapes. As such, the new Ulysse Nardin Dual Time isn’t the watch you’ve known in the past. Forget about the classic, round Dual Time of the early 2000s, the new models are sporty and contemporary. However, what hasn’t changed is the super-practical way of setting the time when travelling.
The Dual Time models have a case inspired by the brand’s recent creations, such as the Skeleton X with the iconic three-horns signature and contrasting colours for the case and its bezel. Measuring 42mm in diameter, it is available in 3 versions. 2 of them are made of brushed stainless steel with a contrasting bezel in blue or in black. The third model is the top of the range, with an 18k rose gold case and a blue bezel. The strap greatly integrates with the rest of the watch and is available either in alligator or in structured rubber.
The dial also recalls some of the boldest creations of Ulysse Nardin, with its large Roman numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock and the central applied rectangle in the middle – a design element found in some openworked movements, here integrated to the display. The dial is sunray brushed and is available either in black or in blue. The applied indexes, hands and rectangle match the case material.
What really matters is the display, with central hours and minutes for the local time, a patented big date at 2 o’clock, a small seconds at 6 o’clock and, important, a circular window at 9 o’clock with a magnifier. This is your permanent home time indicator. Regarding settings, the Ulysse Nardin Dual Time is among the simplest watches. The central hour hand adjusts forward or backward with the simple touch of the “+” and “-” pushers located opposite the crown. Changing time zone when landing after a flight is a matter of seconds.
Powering this new Dual Time 42mm is an automatic movement, calibre UN-24, fitted with the brand’s patented dual time module on top. Running at 4Hz, it stores 42 hours of power reserve. The movement, visible under a sapphire caseback, features a new oscillating weight with a prominent, encircled UN logo.
The Ulysse Nardin Dual Time 42mm will be priced at EUR 8,300 for the steel editions and EUR 22,800 in rose gold. More details at ulysse-nardin.com.
