With the cancellation of Baselworld and Watches & Wonders, the Geneva Watch Days event was one of the very few multi-brand watch events of the year. Seventeen brands showcased their novelties between August 26 and August 29 in the “capital of luxury watchmaking”. The event was decentralised as each brand was presenting novelties in their individual showrooms. We masked up and ventured to Geneva to get a long-awaited horological fix! Here are some of our highlight watches.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE
Ferdinand Berthoud’s first-round model will be one of the watches of the year. Although the brand’s focus remains the same – precision chronometry – the second Berthoud collection comes with a new case and a new calibre. The Chronomètre FB 2RE picks up the shape of Berthoud marine clocks and their modular construction. It is based on a cylindrical container fitted with short, tapering lugs secured to the case by stylised bolts. Time is displayed on a traditional Grand Feu enamel dial combining Roman numerals for the hours and Arabic numerals for the minutes. Its spectacular movement combines a fusée-and-chain and remontoir d’égalité, two mechanisms to regulate the driving force delivered to the oscillator. Visible via the exhibition caseback, the finishing is top-notch.
Quick facts: 44mm gold case – 30m water-resistant – calibre FB-RE.FC, in-house manual-winding, constant force with fusée-and-chain transmission and remontoir d’égalité, COSC-certified chronometer – alligator leather strap – gold pin buckle – CHF 210,000 – for more information, please visit www.ferdinandberthoud.ch
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds
Following the introduction of the Streamliner chronograph earlier this year, Moser’s luxury sports watch collection welcomes a dapper 3-hand model in steel with a superb Matrix Green fumé dial. The watch has a strong 1970s vibe with its rounded cushion-shaped case and distinctive steel bracelet. An extremely complex construction belies the beauty and flexibility of the bracelet with its fluid lines that flow from the case to the clasp. Turn the watch over and the exhibition caseback reveals the in-house automatic calibre HMC 200.
Quick facts: 40mm diameter – stainless steel case – 120m water-resistant – calibre HMC 200, in-house automatic – 3-day power reserve – steel bracelet – folding buckle – CHF 19,900 – for more information, please visit www.h-moser.com
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic
With the release of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, Bvlgari consolidates its sixth world record for thinness in six years. The latest Octo comes in a 42mm x 7.40mm sandblasted grade 5 titanium case, a classic look for the collection. Only 3.50mm in height, the automatic ultra-thin skeleton movement is wound by a peripheral rotor. The chronograph mechanism is driven by a column wheel while an oscillating pinion is used to engage/disengage the chronograph. Like its predecessors, this Octo Finissimo Tourbillon chronograph remains very comfortable on the wrist and it looks spectacular with its sharp and edgy design.
Quick facts: 42mm diameter x 7.40mm height – sandblasted grade 5 titanium case – 30m water-resistant – calibre BVL 388, in-house – automatic ultra-thin movement with peripheral rotor – single-push chronograph with column wheel and oscillating pinion – 52h power reserve – titanium bracelet – folding buckle – EUR 155,000 – limited edition of 50 pieces – for more information, visit www.bulgari.com
Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Anthracite
In 2019, Bvlgari brought Gerald Genta’s heritage back into the spotlight with the launch of a platinum Arena Bi-retro limited edition. For this new edition, the main evolution is the dial. The platinum edition played on elegant tones and shapes; this titanium version is far bolder and almost sporty. The Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retrograde is powered by the automatic calibre BVL 300, visible through the sapphire caseback. It combines jumping hours in a window at 12 o’clock and retrograde minutes. The date is also retrograde (with a 180-degree motion) and fills the empty space available at 6 o’clock.
Quick facts: 43mm diameter x 12mm height – brushed titanium case – calibre BVL 300 Bi-Retro (Bvlgari manufacture base, with specific module for the display) – 42h power reserve – matte black alligator strap with titanium folding clasp – EUR 15,000 – for more information, please visit www.bulgari.com
Ulysse Nardin Blast Skeleton Tourbillon
Ulysse Nardin has unveiled a radical Skeleton Tourbillon with its Blast models with edgy, sharp cases meant to emulate the lines of stealth aircraft and a double X traversing the skeletonised dials. 45mm in diameter, the cases combine modern materials (titanium/ceramic in particular). The calibre UN-172 is an automatic tourbillon movement fitted with a platinum micro-rotor. It features a silicon escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring.
Quick facts: 45mm diameter – titanium middle case, brushed, polished and sandblasted with blue titanium, white or black ceramic or 18k rose gold elements – 50m water-resistant – manufacture calibre UN-172 – automatic tourbillon movement with platinum micro-rotor – 72h power reserve – choice of structured rubber, alligator leather or velvet – folding buckle – from EUR 44,000 – for more information, please visit ulysse-nardin.com