The brand Carl F. Bucherer was born in Lucerne in 1888 and is proud of its rich history. But it’s the recent evolution of the manufacture that engages our interest here, and the impressive technical developments advanced by the brand. The brand has become the master of peripheral technology, used first and foremost for automatic winding. Based on this concept, the brand recently applied this technology to another part of the movement, the regulating organ, creating a so-called peripheral tourbillon (more on that later) inside a watch known as the DoublePeripheral. Today, there’s a new edition launching, the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral White Gold.
Launched in 2018, the Carl F. Bucherer Tourbillon DoublePeripheral made quite an impression on us, here at MONOCHROME. The reason is simple: there are some very impressive technologies running inside this watch that have to do with peripheral technology. Even though CFB isn’t the inventor of the peripheral self-winding mechanism – a patent was applied in June 1955 by Paul Gosteli and in June 1965 by Patek Philippe – the Lucerne-based brand can be credited for bringing this solution to serial production, in 2009 with the calibre CFB A1000, inside a Manero watch – and later with the calibre CFB A2000, produced on a larger scale.
Yet, this was only the beginning of how peripheral technology could be applied… In 2018, Carl F. Bucherer pushed its peripheral concept even further with the presentation of the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral. Besides the signature automatic peripheral rotor, the watch features a peripheral tourbillon. Instead of using the traditional system of rotation around axis held between the main plate and a bridge, or a flying/cantilevered tourbillon, the tourbillon of the calibre CFB T3000 rotates between three miniature ball bearings. Another somewhat unconventional feature is that the cage is prominently placed at 12 o’clock, and it literally seems to be floating over the movement.
The rest of the movement found in this Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral is no less innovative. The tourbillon still beats at a classic 3Hz frequency, but thanks to silicon used on the pallet and escape wheel, the regulating organ is protected against magnetic fields. Also, a useful but rare feature for a tourbillon, the movement is fitted with a stop-seconds mechanism. It allows you to start and stop the tourbillon cage for easy synchronisation with a time signal. Finally, the movement is chronometer-certified by the COSC, attesting to its superior precision.
One of the unique features of this “Heritage” edition of the Tourbillon DoublePeripheral is how the movement is decorated. Instead of Geneva stripes applied on brass, the main bridge on the back – which covers almost the entirety of the movement – is made of 18k white gold and fully hand-engraved (the result of more than two weeks of meticulous craftsmanship), with a city view of Lucerne, including the Chapel Bridge, a landmark of the city. This bridge is surrounded by the 22k white gold peripheral rotor.
Regarding the watch itself, the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral has most of the Manero family traits, with its signature case, smooth bezel and large dial opening. The case is finished with brushed surfaces and a distinctive polished bevel running along the side of the case. For 2020, the brand adds a new white gold edition, which is paired with a tone-on-tone silver dial. The milled rings on the dial, which animate the display, are another unique feature of this “Heritage” edition. White gold-plated, diamond-shaped indices and polished dauphine hands complete this stylish retro-looking watch.
Availability and price
Worn on a dark brown alligator strap with an 18k white gold folding pin buckle, the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral white gold is a limited edition of 88 pieces. It will be priced at EUR 92,888 or CHF 98,888. More details at www.carl-f-bucherer.com.
Technical specifications – Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral
42.5mm diameter x 11.9mm height – 18k white gold case, brushed and polished – sapphire crystals front and caseback (all with AR coating) – 30m water-resistant
silver-coloured dial, sunburst finish with milled rings – applied white gold-plated indices and hands
calibre CFB T3000, in-house – chronometer-certified by COSC – automatic with peripheral rotor (in 22k rose gold with rhodium plating) – 33 jewels – 36.5mm x 4.6mm – hand-engraved 18k white gold bridge – peripheral tourbillon mounted on invisible ball bearing – 3Hz frequency (21,600vph) – silicon pallet and escape wheel – 65h power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds on the one-minute tourbillon
hand-stitched Louisiana alligator leather in dark brown – folding pin buckle in 18k white gold
limited to 88 pieces