As part of the 2019 collection presented at ‘Time To Move’, Glashütte Original’s main novelty came as a surprise. More used to traditional and complex watches inspired by the German school of watchmaking, the brand came out with something we didn’t expect, a new collection of diver’s watches, the SeaQ. The first member of a so-called ‘Spezialist line’, it was a reinterpretation of a 1969 sports watch. After the inaugural steel versions, the larger Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date is updated today with two new versions, a Bicolor and a full Red Gold.
In recent years, Glashütte Original has managed to streamline its collections, removing multiple models, including sports watches such as the Pilot’s collection or Sport Evolution. The SeaQ, while a novel watch, wasn’t the first sports collection of Glashütte Original. And in fact, it didn’t surface out of the blue either. During the 1950s and 1960s, when the brand was named Glashütte Uhrenbetrieb (GUB), the production was mainly focused on utilitarian and accessible watches, and not on high-end watchmaking. And one of these watches was the 1969 “Spezimatic Type RP TS 200”, developed specifically for recreational diving, which is the inspiration behind the SeaQ collection.
Launched in 2019, this new collection includes two different models. First is a vintage-inspired watch with compact dimensions and a retro-styled dial, the SeaQ 39.5mm. Second is a more modern approach to the concept, which mixes design elements of the 1969 Spezimatic with more robustness and a high-end movement. This is the SeaQ Panorama Date. Introduced first in steel with a blue or black dial, it is now offered with a more refined mix of materials and new dial colours, with the new Bicolor and Red Gold editions.
SeaQ Panorama Date Bicolor
For the past few years, two-tone (or steel-and-gold) watches are back in the limelight. Admittedly, when well executed, the combination of cold steel and warm gold can result in some pretty cool watches. Glashütte Original uses this trend to create the Bicolor edition of the SeaQ Panorama Date. While the central part of the case remains in brushed stainless steel, it is now equipped with an 18k red gold bezel with a black ceramic insert and a red gold crown. This version is available either with a black rubber strap or a synthetic grey strap. Customers will have the choice between a steel pin buckle or a steel folding clasp.
Also new for this SeaQ Panorama Date Bicolor is the colour of its dial. Still executed with a galvanic treatment that produces nice metallic reflections, the dark grey dial is sunray-brushed and features galvanic gold applied indexes and hands and the discs that display the Panorama Date match the colour of the dial.
SeaQ Panorama Date Red Gold
The second novelty for 2020 is the SeaQ Panorama Date Red Gold. Here, all the elements – case, crown, bezel, caseback and buckle – are executed in warm 18k red gold, which is still brushed with polished accents. Again, this luxurious version is available either with a black rubber strap or a synthetic grey strap, both closed by an 18k red gold folding clasp. This version is equipped with a galvanic sunray-brushed black dial and galvanic gold indexes and hands.
Other than these new colours and materials, Glashütte Original retains the specifications of its SeaQ Panorama Date, meaning a fairly large case of 43.2mm x 15.65mm, which manages to feel quite compact on the wrist. The dial retains the large and typical numerals and hands, borrowed from the 1969 watch produced by GUB, which give this collection its unique design.
Inside the 300m water-resistant case is a beautiful, advanced movement, the calibre 36-13, introduced along with the Senator Excellence collection. This 4Hz movement features a silicon balance spring (anti-magnetic, less affected by temperature…) Its power reserve is a comfortable 100 hours (approx. 4 days), via a single barrel, wound by a heavy, large rotor with a 21k gold peripheral mass. The overall finish, which can be seen through the caseback, is very pleasant and respectful of German production: Glashütte ribbing on the ¾ plate, polished chamfers, skeletonized rotor with the Double G, blued screws, visible wheels…
Price and availability
The Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Bicolor will be available from all Glashütte Original Boutiques and selected retailers as of July 2020. Price starts from EUR 14,500 (on steel pin buckle). The Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Red Gold is expected to be in stores in autumn 2020, with prices starting from EUR 24,500.
More details at www.glashuette-original.com.