Fourth time at the rodeo for Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam and Nomos, the partnership behind the latest limited edition watch dedicated to the city of Amsterdam: the Tangente 38 Amsterdam. Ace Jewelers launches 45 pieces of the Tangente 38 Amsterdam limited edition – a symbolic number to commemorate the 45th anniversary of the largest retailer in the Netherlands – emblazoned with the colours and the three crosses found on the shield of Amsterdam.
Partnerships between watchmaking companies and retailers can be more than one-off adventures, as in the case of Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam and Nomos watches of Glashütte. Since 2017 Ace Jewelers has partnered with Nomos Watches of Glashütte to produce special limited editions that celebrate all things Dutch. The first partnership resulted in the Nomos Orion ‘De Stijl’, a reference to the famous Dutch art movement of the early 20th century. In 2018 we saw the Nomos Club Campus Amsterdam watch with the colours of the flag of Amsterdam, followed in 2019 by a customised version of Nomos Zürich Weltzeit worldtimer with the city Amsterdam in red (replacing Berlin) on the city disc and even the three white Saint Andrew’s crosses of the city shield.
Nomos Tangente: A classic modern
The latest collaboration between Ace Jewelers and Nomos involves the Tangente watch. With its round barrel-like case, clear and simple layout, elegant proportions and distinctive typography, the Tangente is a classic modern or a modern classic. A bestseller for 25 years, the Tangente has won countless design awards.
Like previous Amsterdam-inspired watches for Ace Jewelers, the Tangente 38 follows the black, white and red colour codes found on Amsterdam’s coat of arms. The dial is matte black with a silvery/white minutes track. The red accents are found on the three St. Andrew’s crosses placed on the track at 6 o’clock along with the red small seconds hand. The five Arabic numerals on the dial, picked out with their distinctive Bauhaus-era typography are quintessential Tangente features and in this model match the colour of the case.
The 38mm stainless steel case is polished and features the characteristic angular lugs that dip sharply. With a very slim height of 6.8mm, the elegant slender case makes the Tangente an ideal dress watch candidate. Even the case pays homage to the city Amsterdam and the three St. Andrew’s crosses are also engraved on the cap of the crown.
Hand-wound Alpha movement
As its name indicates, the Alpha manual-winding calibre was Nomos’ first in-house movement (a largely modified and reworked Peseux 7001) and is used across the board in many of the brand’s models. The Nomos Tangente 38 Amsterdam has a transparent caseback revealing the attractively finished calibre that is just 2.6mm thick. With Glashütte ribbing on the three-quarter plate and perlage on the mainplate, the movement is held in place by 17 jewels, tempered blue screws and offers a power reserve of 43 hours.
Availability and price
The leather strap accompanying the Tangente is black and made from Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan, a smooth, thick and virtually indestructible leather obtained from horsehide ideal for daily wear and tear. As mentioned, the Nomos Tangente 38 Amsterdam for Ace Jewelers is limited to 45 pieces and will retail for EUR 1, 520 (excl. VAT) or EUR 1,840 (incl. VAT). It can be ordered now on the specific pre-order page acejewelers.com and will be delivered late June.
Technical specifications – Nomos Tangente 38 Amsterdam
37.5mm diameter x 6.8mm height – stainless steel, polished – sapphire crystal front, transparent caseback – 30m water-resistant
black – silvery/white minutes track – three red crosses at 6 o’clock – red small seconds hand
Nomos calibre Alpha, in-house – hand-wound – 17 jewels – 23.3mm x 2.6mm – 43h power reserve – 21,600 vibrations/hour – stop-seconds mechanism – hours, minutes, small seconds
black Cordovan leather – steel tang buckle
limited to 45 pieces – available late June
EUR 1,840 (incl. VAT) or EUR 1,520 (excl. VAT)